When ever you watch a movie, there is always that point where the protagonists are in a house and common sense says that one would leave, but they never do, they stay and invariably the worst happens.
I wonder sometimes if Norway is our house, and we should have left at the first sign of trouble, but like those characters, we ignored all the warning signs and are now paying the price!
It started off so beautifully. Wonderful weather, great roads, and awesome scenery. It was on our third day, heading towards Bergen, that the first sign of trouble began. Rain.
Not normal rain, short heavy showers, or light and long, but heavy and long, like monsoon in India. At these degrees north it is only warm or hot when the sun is out, put some clouds in the equation, thick low, freezing clouds, and it is considerably cooler.
So on that 3rd day, we rode the high mountain passes when the snow never fully melts at super cold temperatures and intermittent rain, and descended into monsoon lower altitudes that drove us to find proper shelter for the night.
I checked the forecast for Bergen, which was only another 100miles down the road, and it was heavy rain for the next 3 days, so I made decision to head back to the main road to head north towards our goal of Nordkapp. The weather agreed with us, and we had a lovely ride in the sunshine on our 4th day, stopping at a campsite for the night after having an altercation with a truck on a hair pin bend sending my nerves in hyper drive and draining all energy from my soul to cope with finding a wild camp for the night.
we only covered about 150 miles in large part because of traffic. July is holiday month for Norway, where 80% of the working population are on holiday (for Sweden it is August) and entire factories will close down. The vast majority of these holiday makers have camper vans or caravans, and have to where to go quickly as they have seen it all before, Norway being their place to holiday every year. A camper will travel at about 40-50 mph, slowing down over time, and then speeding up if there is a straight section in the road. They have no consideration that a line of about 100 vehicles including lorries has built up behind them, and that the road is the only main road north, or rather very few showed consideration and gave opportunities for people to pass. Throw in some really bad weather, and average speed will drop dramatically! The weather was cold and cloudy and rained 60% of the time and again we stayed in a campsite that night.
The following day, the heavens opened so we packed up early and set off. We must have been on the road for about 5 hours with the rain pouring down the whole time, but only travelled about 100miles that day. In part the weather, but also the traffic was now particularly slow and we were taking a stop about every hour to warm up with some hot chocolate.
So drenched again, we pulled into a place and got a room to dry out including all our camping kit. In the process my jacket got oil paint on it as they decided mid-season was the best time to paint with no signs up. They refused any compensation, and whilst ‘you can hardly’ see the paint on the jacket after they scrubbed it, it is none the less damaged and I insisted that they must take some responsibility for it. But we don’t have time to hang around and argue about it all day so eventually we hit the road and got soaked again!
We were lucky this time to find a really cheap cabin by the side of a river, however, again the distance travelled was only about 150miles.
Today I had to make a decision – do we cross into Sweden or battle on with Norway. I had been scanning wind, satellite and rain maps for the last 3 days to determine the direction of the weather systems, as I didn’t want to have the weather follow us and it was clear that the forecasters had been caught off guard as well, as the forecasts were rarely correct!
It was clear the weather would move west so we made the run for Sweden through cold wet mountain passes and once again we were utterly drenched! However, this day was better than the rest because for the first time I had some conversations with people! Norwegians are very closed and not prone to being interested in strangers, no matter how exotic they may be (a GB number plate is pretty exotic in these parts!), and even the foreigners vacationing are so wrapped up in their own world they are not interested in others either. For me this was a strange as travelling people, in my experience, tend to be more open and enjoy the experience of meeting others on the road – yet even my attempts at engaging conversation seemed to fall flat on its face.
All this changed when we entered Sweden. The Swedish loved talking to travellers! and even the travellers seemed more open. So after over a week of what felt like total isolation in our own experience, the world started to open up. That night, soaked again, we stayed in a cabin. Our costs of this trip had now officially spiralled out of control!
The weather was splendid! Sunny day, beautiful roads, and hardly a camper van in sight! We covered about 450 miles and could have kept going, only I found a beautiful camping spot by a river at about 7pm despite its swarm of mosquitos and some sort of fly. Luckily some finnish fishermen were camping near by and lent us some coils which had a magical effect! None the less, I did not sleep well as the ‘brightness’ of the light at night started to bother me.
We passed the line for the Arctic Circle this day, and a big tick in the box of goals as Sofia wanted to go to the Arctic Circle.
Our final push to Nordkapp! the weather was great, even at Nordkapp where the winds promised to be light, which was a relief after one altitude pass on the way had such a howling cross wind it was a battle to keep hold of the bike!
Turning on to the E69, the Nordkapp road, we were filled with excitement, we were finally there, and only a couple of hundred kilometers to go – the sun was shining and the winds were light!
And then disaster struck, the bike broke down!
Rescue finally arrived 4 hours later, and when I went to show the mechanic the problem (the engine cutting when there was no throttle applied) and the engine idled no problem at all. So I drove to the garage with the truck following, thankfully in the direction of Nordkapp rather than away from it – but still, all hopes of making it to the furthest point North on the European continent were by now dashed.
The bike made it to the garage, however the vibration was really bad and the power was weak, this was not a simple fix and the mechanic advised that BMW were the best placed to deal with it – BMW whose closest dealership was in Tromso, some 600km. So the discussions began with the insurance company, that have become more ludicrous as time has gone on which is for another post, however, just in this evening alone – they seemed more determined to pay for a Taxi to Nordkapp 35km away and bring us back the next day, than pay for our accommodation where we were even though is would be cheaper – thankfully the battery went flat on my phone before we came to any conclusion!
Once the phone had some charge, we waited for them to call – they didn’t – I called them – there was no answer. Finally we gave up and by this time had booked into the local hostel (a shocking 80 Euros for one night is the cheapest accommodation in the area!) only to have the garage owner offer us a car until things got sorted with the Insurance company! What a star! So we dumped our stuff, got something to eat (we hadn’t eaten since 10am that morning) and with 30mins to spare, made it up to Nordkapp so see the midnight sun!
After such battles, our elation was palpable – and Sofia did something she has never done before, grabbed me round the shoulders for the selfie photo with a big grin on her face! It is the first time she has ever done that, normally she hates to be hugged and it is extremely rare that she may hug, and even then she hates being hugged in return. So the picture of us grinning a is a particularly special one at is denotes not only a shared experience and achievement, but that she felt that experience as a shared one and expressed in an appropriate way 🙂
If you enjoy following our travels, please make a donation – We are travelling approximately 8,000 miles – £5 will help us cover 50miles, £10 = 100miles
We don’t know the costs for fixing the bike yet but any help towards that will be GREATLY appreciated!
A huge ‘Thank You!’ to Rev’it who sponsored our riding gear! It has done a tremedous job in the weather we have had to deal with!
Our Jackets and Jeans were the Horizon range
Our boots – Outdry Discovery